28 August to Ucluelet

Sunday 28 August

A leisurely start to the day. We were so lucky with the weather yesterday – well altogether since we arrived! However, the clouds have rolled in and rain is forecast. We were driving from Port Alberni to Ucluelet today. Only a short drive – just over 100km. The rain arrived then went away so it was not as though we were driving in pouring rain. It was a pretty drive, not too much in the way of views though, so it was not too much of a bother that the clouds were shrouding the high sides of the valley which we could glimpse only briefly between the trees which line the road.

We stopped off at the information centre where the road comes to a T intersection – left to Ucluelet and right to Tofino. We headed up to Tofino. First stop Wickaninnish Beach where there is an info centre run by the local First Nations people, known as the Kwisitis Visitor Centre. There were very many interesting exhibits, the primary one being the exhibit describing how, for centuries, the First Nations people used to harpoon whales – sustainably!

We were lucky enough that there was a carving demonstration happening and while Ian was putting our parking ticket (which had to be bought in the info centre) back at the car, I chatted to a young fellow who had also driven down from Port Alberni today for the festival which was on in the afternoon. He was a very proud member of his tribe which is based in Kildonan where we had visited on the boat yesterday. However, he was at pains to talk about how different tribes cooperate with each other and respect the way of life of each tribe. I suppose there are similarities with tribes in Australia. I shall have to find out when we visit the Kimberley next year.

We went for a walk along the beach which is typically littered with washed up driftwood. It seems to be a Canadian tradition to build ‘cubby houses’ out of the massive white logs. There were plenty along this long stretch of beach, but we had also seen children building them when we were back at Esquimalt Lagoon on our way to Port Alberni.

Crab shells also littered the beach

We also visited Florencia Beach which is more remote and only for experienced surfers. Beach access is down a steep track, but there is a lookout and a description of the doomed Florencia ship which was wrecked here in 1861. Then we headed up to Tofino. We decided to call in to some of the other sights on the ocean side on our return instead of continually crossing the main road. We drove right into rain as we approached the town, but again, it was simply coming and going.

We drove around the small surf town before parking and finding a cafe where we enjoyed a cup of coffee and shared a very large chicken roll. This town would possibly equate to Byron Bay in NSW. Lots of hippie-type young folk mixing with the tourists. It has the name as a surf location, but there are many beaches away from the town which are frequented by more experienced surfers rather than in and around Tofino itself.

After driving up to a lookout on our return trip, we headed for Ucluelet where we are staying for the next three nights. Our host was ready to help with information about the trails in the area which we plan to walk as well as information about where to eat – don’t you just love local information. I think we will be very comfortable here for the next few nights. Pity the weather is not cooperating as this is a really rugged, scenic area.